JEWELRY MAKING PROCESS

Jewelry making at SOVATS

Each piece of jewelry undergoes in-house design and craftsmanship to uphold control over our manufacturing process. We take comfort in the knowledge that our products are ethically and responsibly crafted.

JEWELRY SUGGESTIONS

The Sketch

The inception of nearly every jewelry concept starts with a sketch. While there are computer programs available for this task, we favor the simplicity of pencils.

Sketching a jewelry design entails creating a detailed portrayal before its physical manifestation. It encompasses considerations such as gemstone arrangement, metalwork intricacies, and overall aesthetics. Given the three-dimensional nature of jewelry, designs are often depicted from various angles to capture every facet.

Wax Model 

The sketched design is meticulously carved into wax. This model must exhibit flawlessness in every detail, as the ultimate quality of the final piece hinges upon it. Therefore, the master artisan ensures that the original wax model is crafted to absolute perfection.

Jewelry Making, Master Model

The initial wax model is enveloped in a plaster-like investment, tailor-made for jewelry production. Once the investment solidifies, the encased wax model undergoes burning in an oven, effectively removing the wax and leaving behind a void shaped like the intended jewelry piece. This cavity is then filled with silver, resulting in a replica of the original wax design..

Rubber Mold

Next, the silver master model is enclosed within layers of specialized mold rubber, tightly compressed under intense heat and pressure until it consolidates into a solid block. The rubber conforms to the contours of the master model, crafting a precise three-dimensional impression of the jewelry piece. Following this, the rubber is split in half to extract the silver master. Once reassembled, hot wax is injected through a hole in the rubber to occupy the ring-shaped void inside, thereby generating a wax replica of the master model.

Jewelry Making, Wax Tree

In the final transformation from wax to gold, typically 10 to 20 wax models are positioned on a sizable branching wax tree. Once the tree is fully assembled, the entire wax structure is encased within a flask.

Jewelry Making, Burn Out

 

A unique liquid plaster known as investment is prepared and poured over the wax tree, completely enveloping it. A vacuum process is employed to eliminate any air bubbles from the liquid investment. Similar to the process used for the original model's mold, once the investment solidifies, the wax is incinerated, leaving behind a branching tree cavity ready to be filled with molten metal.

Casting

Gold or silver grains along with an alloy (a blend of other metals) are introduced and melted. Once the metal reaches the appropriate temperature, approximately 950°C, it is poured into the solidified plaster mold containing the impression of the tree. After the gold solidifies, the mold is fractured, and the tree is extracted from the investment.

Metal Work

At this stage, the jeweler meticulously refines the primary structure of your ring, necklace, or any other piece. They skillfully file down the casting skin to unveil the pristine metal underneath.

Jewelry Making, Gems Setting 

 

The setting of gems and diamonds is a pivotal element in jewelry design, enriching the allure and worth of these exquisite stones. Various setting styles exist, each distinguished by its attributes: Prong setting, Channel setting, Bezel setting, and Pave setting are among the most prevalent.

The selection of a setting hinges upon desired aesthetics, stone type, and the intended purpose of the jewelry. Each setting boasts distinct advantages and considerations concerning security, upkeep, and overall visual appeal.

Finishing

In the concluding phase, a skilled polisher meticulously works to ensure that the metal is polished to a flawless finish, maximizing its shine.

Ultimately, the jewelry undergoes a thorough inspection, and any imperfections are promptly addressed and rectified.

Now you possess a fundamental understanding of the jewelry manufacturing process, granting insight into the intricate steps leading to the creation of a finished piece of jewelry.

OUR BESPOKE JEWELRY